A storied landscape
The landscape and culture of rural Romania come from another time. In spring the fields are covered with wildflowers that have mostly vanished from other parts of Europe.
We visit the UNESCO World Heritage-listed timber churches of Maramures and the Merry Cemetery with its folk-art headstones, etched with bittersweet memories of the lives they commemorate.
Romania has more brown bears than anywhere else in Europe. In a Transylvanian forest, we’ll watch quietly from a hide as they come to feed at dusk.
We stay in small hotels and village guesthouses, which are simple but comfortable, charming and full of atmosphere.
The ingredients for most of our meals come from within walking distance of the table. You’ll rediscover the pleasures of farmhouse flavours lost from supermarket produce.
The guesthouses where we stay in Micloșoara, a Hungarian-speaking enclave, is a restored hunting manor, set within pretty gardens in a village crowned with storks’ nests.